![]() Largely unpermitted, or at least frowned upon, in French vineyards, large quantities of water can be used at estates like Opus One to counteract the drying effects of the hot climate. Irrigation is also a big question in the Napa. This has two key advantages: firstly, the wave of cool air keeps the grapes from burning, and secondly, the evaporation that follows these chilly nights creates a humidity that, in turn, refreshes the vines. Then, at night, even in the summer, they cope with temperature drops of at least 20☌, a particularity of Opus One’s location not far from the San Francisco Bay. Very little rain falls on the Napa Valley, and the vines are grown tall and in high density to protect the grapes from the intense sun. And the environment they’ve adapted to is quite something. Far from home, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec plants have nonetheless learnt to thrive. Counting 90,000 visitors a year at its peak, a world-class winery, and 69 hectares of highly diverse terroir, it’s clear that planting Bordeaux vines in foreign soil was a risk worth taking. Opus One’s first vintage was the 1979, though, and the estate seems to be doing rather well so far. Philippe de Rothschild once said that “making a great wine is easy it’s just the first 100 years that are difficult”. We wouldn’t want it any other way, either! The result of this hybrid culture is a meeting of minds and methods that produces truly special wine. Yet, however much the traditional, ‘old-world’ approach could be imitated, such a project was bound to grow legs (or roots!) of its own. Teaming up with Robert Mondavi, the Baron de Rothschild’s mission was to bring Bordeaux’s viticulture to life on totally new ground, which meant initially importing Bordeaux’s classic grape varieties, oak barrels for the same kind of ageing, and more than a suitcaseful of ancestral know-how. When Philippe de Rothschild took a liking to California’s character, the idea of bringing his vast wine-making experience over the Atlantic was self-evident. Opus One has been an ambitious project since the day it was thought up. Here’s what we learnt with Gwendoline La Burthe, Export Manager France for Opus One. Such a quick shift in the climate sets the scene nicely for a Californian domain born of contrasting cultures, and whose wines we were lucky enough to taste as a team last June. During harvest season, the workers at Opus One don their woolly hats and scarves to pick the estate’s all-precious fruit by night, so far does the temperature plummet. When the sun sets behind this immense landscape, though, what’s revealed is a different world. The fine-grained, plush tannins evolve into a long, supple finish.The hues and contours of California’s Napa Valley are infused with bright sunshine, framed by a broad backdrop of hills and an expanse of vineyards that stretch far, far further than the eye can see. This seductive wine shows flavors of black cassis, black cheerry and a hint of cocoa powder. The juicy entry offers a round, silky mouthfeel with just enought acidity to complement the satin texture. The Opus One 2017 offers a harmonious aromatic balance of rich dark fruit, stems of roses and earthy forest floor. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The structure is fine-grained, delivering a lingering hint of acidity. This features currant and plum fruit, with tobacco, loam and singed savory notes, maintaining range and driving through the finish. Medium-to full-bodied, round and savory with creamy, juicy tannins. ![]() Lots of currant and floral notes on the nose. Medium-bodied, the palate has a lively skip in its step, featuring bags of juicy raspberry and cassis-laced fruit and a refreshing line, supported by ripe, plush tannins, finishing long and graceful. Medium to deep garnet-purple colored, it slowly grows on the nose, revealing compelling notes of baked black cherries, mulberries, black raspberries, warm cassis and blackberry pie with nuances of spice cake, yeast extract, tapenade, licorice and dusty soil with a waft of wild sage. The 2017 Opus One, bottled in July 2019, is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Merlot and 1% Malbec. Opus One had picked 91% of their fruit before the fires started in 2017, and only two lots were eliminated from consideration. In 2017, Opus One has a distinctly red-toned fruit profile that distinguishes it from the surrounding vintages. Exotic, beautifully perfumed and impeccable in its balance, Opus One is one of the most complete wines of the vintage. Plush fruit and soft, silky contours give the 2017 its racy personality. A remarkable wine for the year, the 2017 Opus One is a dense, full-throttle beauty.
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